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Coast of Pichilemu and lost bags, Chile Pacific Surf town

We drove up the steep dirt road to Punta Ballenes lodge, our home for two nights. We were in the heart of Chilean surf country with a long perfect break, no crowds and the free range good natured dogs of Chile.

The Señora was coming back from Columbia – incommunicado in transit today, so the housekeeper and the husband were gracious to welcome us though we were unannounced guests. The app was on the Señora phone, not theirs. She had our reservation and they were prepared anyhow. The husband needed to go surfing and the housekeeper sorted us out. We settled in the two cabanas of Señora’s delightful design and rested in the comforting outdoor area.

Lula the dog gave us an approving sniff and jumped in our laps for petting and affection. Textiles and swinging chairs held us as we relaxed with the sight of the fog rolling in. The background sound of the Pacific breakers welcomed us. The landscape looked like southern Baja California but with occasional pines and pefrect waves. It was a surf town with fresh fish and an excellent restaurant and few people as this was the off season before winter. The afternoon smelled like Santa Cruz California.

One of us left a pack in the last shop we visited and it was a two hour drive back to retrieve it. Our group split up, the men went for pack retrieval back to Pomerie. The women walked to the beach and town.

Charlie’s pack, money, passport and insulin waited in the shop where he had purchased his new cashmir poncho the day before. We couldn’t call but knew the honest women from the shop would have his pack. As we pulled up across the street from their shop, the welcoming nod made us understand they had been waiting for us.

Pam and Lizzy spent the morning with a pleasant break and then walked to the beach, we met them in the afternoon. Charlie and I were tired from the drive but relived to have his gear back and the group together.

The Señora was back and was sitting with her two year old who petted her face, he’d missed her so. Father wasn’t enough. The sweet child was under the weather and needed mother. We had little business with the Señora and took her advise for dinner. Dusk came to Punta Lobos and we feasted on local lamb, fish, vegetables and Cabernet. We were grateful for it all and glad to know this place.


We discovered a new (for us) spice from Chile. Roasted smoked peppers.

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